Besides being drought-resistant, fire-resistant, and resisting browsing by rabbits, this tidy, evergreen, California native is versatile as either a hedge, screen, border, ground cover, or bank stabilizer — and works in large containers.


Frangula californica


  • Plant Form: Evergreen Shrub
  • Water Use: Low
  • Mature Size: 5-12 ft. tall and wide
  • Exposure: Full Sun, Part Sun
  • Bloom Time: Spring – Summer (May-July)
  • Native to: California, southwest Oregon, Nevada, Arizona, northern Baja (below 7000 feet)
  • Hardiness: Cold hardy to 10°F

Coffeeberry is touted as looking “trimmed without trimming”, although this tidy evergreen does take pruning well. This long-lived California native, also known as California Buckthorn, grows naturally in a wide range of habitats, with many available varieties, so check with your local nursery to find the one that best fits your climate. While commonly growing in chaparral and woodland habitats just above our deserts, it performs well in high deserts if given filtered or afternoon shade, and water once a week for its first year. Coffeeberry’s fruits contain seeds that resemble coffee beans. Its light-green, 2 to 4-inch-long leaves mature to a leathery dark green. Inconspicuous greenish-yellow flowers in spring produce showy berries that are green, then red, and finally ripen to black, when they are relished by birds. Coffeeberry is fire resistant, resists browsing by rabbits and deer, and makes a great hedge, screen, border, ground cover, or bank stabilizer, and performs well in large containers.

Check out our  “Garden Tasks” for January

Little John Dwarf Bottlebrush

Callistemon citrinus ‘Little John’


What a perfect solution to hot, dry garden sites, as well as offering the added benefits of attracting hummingbirds while repelling rabbits and deer. Besides these practical uses, this compact bottlebrush gives months of showy, red flowers for your enjoyment.

  • Plant Form: Evergreen Shrub
  • Water Use: Low
  • Mature Size: 3 ft. tall x 5 ft. wide
  • Exposure: Full Sun
  • Bloom Time: Spring – Fall (March – November)
  • Native to: Australia
  • Hardiness: Cold hardy to 20°F

Little John Dwarf Bottlebrush is a hummingbird’s delight that is compact enough to fit into any garden. This slow-growing evergreen shrub holds up in hot, dry landscapes, and resists the browsing of rabbits and deer while attracting butterflies, birds, and pollinators. Flowers are heaviest in spring and summer, but can appear throughout the entire growing season. Prune only after the heaviest bloom is over so you won’t lose the majority of flower buds for the season. This dwarf bottlebrush can be lined up for a short hedge, massed like a groundcover, or used as a middle-border accent plant. Its small size makes it great in containers, which can be moved into protected areas during hard frosts. If winter temperatures dip below 20°F in your area, you might try Little John’s more cold-hardy cousin, Rigid Bottlebrush Tree (Callistemon rigidus), and keep this 6 to 8-foot-tall shrub pruned if you want a smaller plant.

Check out our  “Garden Tasks” for December

Smoke Bush ‘Young Lady’

Cotinus coggygria ‘Young Lady’


Masses of pinkish, billowy hairs on spent flower clusters are what create the illusion of smoke from summer to fall on this intriguing shrub or small tree. Smoke bush has the added surprise of fall leaf colors from yellow, orange, and red to purplish-red foliage.

  • Plant Form: Deciduous Shrub or Tree
  • Water Use: Low, Moderate
  • Mature Size: 4-6 ft. tall & wide
  • Exposure: Full Sun
  • Bloom Time: Summer – Fall (June – October)
  • Native to: Southern Europe to Central China
  • Hardiness: Cold hardy to 0°F

Smoke Bush ‘Young Lady’ will treat you with billows of “smokey” flower clusters from summer through fall. Smoke Bush gets its common name not from the tiny, yellowish flowers in spring, but from billowy hairs on the stalks of spent flower clusters, covering the plant with fluffy, hazy, smoke-like puffs from summer into fall. This new variety is noted for blooming early as a young shrub, with feathery blooms covering the plant’s blue-green foliage. Other varieties, such as Royal Purple Smoke Tree (12 – 15 feet tall), produce pinkish-purple, smoke-like airy seed clusters backed by reddish-purple foliage. Fall leaf colors vary from yellow, orange, and red to purplish-red. For the best bloom, prune very lightly in early spring. Hard pruning to the framework induces new growth with larger leaves, but compromises flowers. Useful as a single specimen, grouped or massed in shrub borders, or as an informal hedge or screen (a smoke screen!).

Check out our  “Garden Tasks” for November

Sparklette Trumpet Bush

Tecoma ‘Sparklette’


You will be amazed that this tropical-looking shrub actually thrives in our deserts. The showy trumpet-shaped flower clusters attract butterflies, hummingbirds, and bees…and admiring humans!

  • Plant Form: Evergreen or Semi-deciduous Shrub
  • Water Use: Low
  • Mature Size: 3-5 ft. tall x 2-3 ft. wide
  • Exposure: Full Sun, Part Shade
  • Bloom Time: Spring – Fall (March – October)
  • Native to: Texas, Florida, W. Indes, Mexico, Central and South America
  • Hardiness: Cold hardy to 20°F

Sparklette Trumpet Bush is a drought-tolerant, heat-loving perennial that appears much too lush and tropical to survive in the southwest, but it performs beautifully here. All Trumpet Bush species love heat, but most have frost-sensitive leaves. Their roots, however, survive much colder temperatures, and plants recover very quickly if trimmed back to 12 inches when new growth starts in the spring. Related to our Desert Willow (notice the flower similarity), its lush, green leaves resemble those of elderberry. While other Trumpet Bushes grow to 12 feet high or more, this compact hybrid reaches just 3 to 5 feet tall. Showy clusters of trumpet-shaped flowers with yellow petals and maroon throats attract hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies from spring through fall. Trumpet Bushes are massed in gardens and shrub borders, planted as informal hedges or screens, and used as specimen plants — just remember they will need to be pruned back after frost.

Check out our  “Garden Tasks” for October

Russian Sage

Perovskia atriplicifolia


Russian Sage tolerates all the challenges of southwestern landscapes: high heat, cold, drought, and poor soils–and even resists browsing by rabbits and deer.

  • Plant Form: Deciduous perennial
  • Water Use: Very Low
  • Mature Size: 3-4 ft. tall & wide
  • Exposure: Full Sun
  • Bloom Time: Summer – Fall (June – September)
  • Native to: Asia (Afghanistan to Tibet)
  • Hardiness: Cold hardy to -20°F

Russian Sage is a hardy, drought- tolerant, heat-loving perennial that is underused in southwest landscapes. Small but brilliant violet-blue flowers seem to float in an airy cloud above its foliage from summer until a hard frost. Neither Russian nor a sage, the gray-green leaves of this mint family plant are aromatic when crushed, which helps to repel rabbits and deer. It tolerates almost any soil, from clay to sand, as well as salty and highly alkaline soils. This finely-textured plant blends perfectly with our southwest natives, working equally well in dry desert landscapes, cottage gardens, and Mediterranean gardens. Cut back plants almost to the ground in late winter to early spring as soon as new growth appears. This sturdy plant is great as a background planting, in singles or in clusters. It also performs nicely in linear rows as small divider hedges, or as a large-scale ground cover. Russian Sage beautifully compliments succulents, ornamental grasses, and other perennials.


Check out our  “Garden Tasks” for September

Summers are tough for a desert botanist. It pains my heart to look out across both our yard and the open desert and watch the native plants turning brown, dropping their leaves, and shutting down for the summer. I know that these plants have to do this just to survive the coming months of intense sun, 100+ degree heat, and no promise of rain for most of the year. Yes, the scientist in me knows that all these desert plants have adapted to this climate by taking an obligate summer sleep, designed by nature to slip into dormancy for the summer, and that shutting down is what allows them to survive the brutal summers here. But it hurts me, none the less.

Like watching our friends struggle, it's hard to see desert plants go through long summers with no water.

Like watching our friends struggle, it’s hard to see desert plants go through long summers with no water, resorting to dropping all their leaves and going dormant during extreme conditions.

This is a strategy used by plants from deserts around the world. When the soil is hot and dry, the plants sleep. When the soil is cool and wet, they wake up and grow. I know that I must resist the urge to keep their soil wet over the summer; I would not be doing them any favor to constantly water them, because soils that are wet when they are hot would only grow harmful bacteria and fungus that cause root rot, and deprive the roots of needed oxygen, especially when soils are hot. I would literally kill my native plants with kindness.

But wait–it’s not the water per se that kills desert plant roots in the summer; it’s continuous water in hot soil that kills them. So what if we could occasionally deliver the water down into a soil depth where the soil isn’t hot? Moisture in cool soil doesn’t grow root pathogens like it does in hot soil. An occasional summer thunderstorm can be a natural occurrence in the desert, and that doesn’t hurt the plants, because it is fleeting moisture, soaked up by roots, and quickly drying out; the soil will not be soaked again for many weeks or months. Infrequent soakings don’t create enough incubation time for big populations of harmful soil microbes to grow and cause root rot.

So here is a strategy to help native and other desert-friendly plants get through summer with less pain for them and for their human garden stewards: during the summer, deliver water deep into the soil occasionally with “deep water stakes”, soaking subterranean soils several feet below the surface where soil temperatures are much lower.

Deep-water Stakes

Deep-water stakes are available in 1, 2, and 3-foot lengths to deliver water deep into the ground with no surface evaporation, delivering that water into cooler subterranean soil layers.

We decided to try this method when our 25-year old, 15-foot tall row of sugarbush plants (Rhus ovata) started showing the stress of seven years of severe drought. They have not been on an irrigation system for decades, since they are native to our valley and normally receive adequate moisture from seasonal rains. But seven years of almost no rain was just too much for them. Their leaves turned brownish-black, most with tiny holes like miniature buckshot; whole limbs were dying, and leaves were becoming scarce on the limbs that were surviving. It was grim. These plants had for years formed a thick privacy screen along our property boundary. Now we could see right through the branches.

Deep-water stakes to the rescue! We bought dozens of 2-foot long, hollow plastic watering stakes with holes along the sides, and a pointed end to make installation easy with a rubber mallet or hammer. In some places, our soil was so dry and compacted, we had to soak the soil with water first to pound the stake in.

We installed a stake between each adjacent plant, and one stake on either side of each sugarbush. We were careful to place the stakes under the “dripline” of each plant, the area under the ends of the branches, where the root system is most active and absorbs moisture. The area right next to the crown of the plant, where the stem comes out of the soil, does not have roots that still absorb water; roots near the crown have barked over, providing structure but not absorption. Many plants suffer from fungal rot if the soil near the crown is continually saturated during warm weather.

Sugarbush leaves before and after deep watering

Sugarbush leaves before and after deep watering.

These watering stakes are not cheap, but we weighed the cost of losing our trees, and watering much more frequently at the surface and possibly still losing the trees, versus the water saved by watering deeply only every few months.  We felt the expense was worth it in the long run. You can make your own deep-water sleeves by cutting short sections of PVC drainage pipe, digging holes next to your plant, burying the sleeve under the dripline of the plant, filling it with gravel, placing your irrigation line through one of the holes, and buying a PVC cap to keep dirt and animals out. However, the caps are fairly expensive, and digging the holes to bury the sleeve next to existing plants is very labor-intensive and can damage plant roots. Deep-watering sleeves made of drainage pipe are most practical if they are installed when a new plant is first planted. We also like the ease with which the manufactured stakes can be pulled out by sliding a screwdriver through the top set of holes, pulling the stake out of the ground, and pounding it back in further from the plant’s crown as the plant grows.

Adapting a garden hose to fit into deep water stakes, which are normally designed for 1/4" irrigation tubing. We place a washer over the opening of the stake when the cap is off to keep dirt out of the stake.

Adapting a garden hose to fit into deep water stakes, which are normally designed for 1/4″ irrigation tubing. We place a washer over the opening of the stake whenever the cap is off to keep dirt out of the stake.

The cap of each stake has a small slit to allow placement of a ¼-inch irrigation line into the stake before fitting the cap over the stake. Since we don’t have irrigation to this far section of our yard, we rigged up a hose ending that fits down into the stake (plastic tubing attached with a hose adapter to a garden hose), and watered with our garden hose.

To reduce the end size of your garden hose to fit down into narrow deep-water stakes, buy a screw-on hose adapter to fit onto a short piece of flexible plastic hose.

To reduce the end size of your garden hose to fit down into narrow deep-water stakes, buy a screw-on, plastic hose adapter to fit onto a short piece of flexible plastic hose.

We slipped our plastic tubing into the stake, turned on the faucet to a fast drip/slow drizzle, and set a timer for 6 hours per stake. To our amazement, we started to see not just new leaves, but entire new branches growing within two weeks. We did this just once in April, and again in June. We will not water them again until August or September, if we don’t get any monsoonal rains. With ample winter rains, supplemental irrigation won’t be necessary; however, if we have just a small fraction of our normal winter precipitation, as we have had for multiple years in the past, we might try one deep-watering session over the winter. If these plants hadn’t been so stressed from years of drought, they could likely thrive with just one or two deep watering sessions per year. So many new branches have regrown on every plant that we again have a thick privacy screen shielding us from the street. We feel we rescued these beauties from possible death, or at least a fate so unsightly we would have had to cut them back severely and hope for some regrowth next winter.

We will be testing deep-water stakes on some of our other deep-rooted native plants to determine whether an occasional deep, subterranean soaking keeps them from going totally summer dormant. Like they say, we don’t want to fool Mother Nature, but we would like to give our valiant desert native plants a little boost during our new climate regime of hotter and drier days. We will report back on our results.

Until then, remember that occasional deep soakings are better for your desert-adapted plants than frequent, shallow watering. Deep watering teaches plant roots to grow down deep to find moist soils, protecting roots from drying out at the surface.

Sugarbush after deep watering_4752

Privacy screen of mature sugarbushes with new flush of leaves and branches after being watered with deep-water stakes following a seven-year drought that killed off most of the branches and leaves.

Shallow watering teaches roots to stay near the surface to find moisture, but surface soils heat up fast and dry out quickly. There is little protection for shallow roots if the surface soil heats up and dries out. Roots will never learn to go deep if trained to stay shallow—condemning both of you to a schedule of constant irrigation. For desert native plants, frequent summer watering can speed them toward root rot and death. If you can’t resist watering your struggling natives during the summer, make like a summer thunderstorm and put lots of water on them over one or two days, then let the soil dry out completely before creating another “monsoonal storm”.

As we sip wine on our Hobbit Deck at sunset, it make us smile to look over our 1/2-acre desert garden and see native plants not just surviving this extreme summer heat, but thriving.


P.S. Deep-water stakes are available locally at Cactus Mart in Morongo Valley, Home Depot stores, and online from “Deep Drip Watering Stakes” at


Deep Drip Stakes_Trees

Placement of 24-inch stakes for trees. Courtesy


Deep Drip Stakes_Shrubs

Placement of 14-inch stakes for trees. Courtesy